i wonder how bryan and andrew are doing. i'm doing pretty good actually. why did i agree to do this? the smoky mountains... right in the heart of the appalachians,this is the most visited of all national parks. nearly ten million peoplecome here each year. hey, doggy. you can fish, camp, ride horses, bike,and enjoy the scenery and nearby tourist traps. but we weren't here to be tourists.
we were here to commune with nature. to sit by the fire andsleep beneath the stars. to do that, we'd need to grabsome maps; each only a dollar. the big creek trailhead has kioskanyone can access using the honor system. before heading out on our backpacking trip, we were gonnastay at the big creek campgrounds at the foot of the hills. we were ready for our next adventure,but there was just one problem. campground closed for the season. so since this is closed we might want to goto cosby campground which is close enough. i don't know if that's closed either, but...
...if not, we might have to sleep in the car. we drive in the darknessacross a precarious mountain road... ...only to find that the cosbycampground was closed too. there wasn't a soul in sight. we paced back and forththinking about what we should do. yeah, my bad. i didn't even check to see if the front countrycampgrounds, like the developed ones, were closed or not. cause i figured if the backcountry campgroundsare open, you'd think these would be. see i just thought since you madereservations, and i printed out reservations... ...that one of them must have included thecampsite that we were staying at the first night.
you give me far too much credit. okay, well i guessthere's no camp to set up, so... at least it's warm. it is... what time is it? 7:41. oh god... that was the worst sleepi have ever had in my life. by a long shot.
one night of sleeping in the car,and you want to kill everyone in sight. i would find a comfortable spot, and then after three secondsit felt like my spinal column was being bent the wrong way. so i'd have to shift andbend it back the other way. i couldn't tell when i was awake or asleep,and you kept thinking we were saying stuff. i thought at some point yousaid something about koreans. and like, "those koreans." and i was like,what are you talking about, "those koreans." it started drizzling in the morning, so we movedbeneath an amphitheater to organize our gear. the sky was overcast. which was a bitintimidating considering what we had planned. on this trip, i would be heading west from thecosby campground, while bryan headed east.
meanwhile, robby would behiking out from the big creek trailhead. we'd camp alone for a night, then we would all make our waytowards the rendezvous point just beneath mt. cammerer. from there, we'd journey together to the davenport gap shelterwhere we'd spend another night before finally hiking out. don't be eaten by bears. after we finished packing, it was time forus to split up and head out into the rain. we were nervous, but filled with excitement. as i drove back on the mountain road through the rain, the other twohad just arrived at bryan's trailhead at the far end of cosby campground. now, all three of us were alone. rain poured down from aboveand our glasses were fogged up.
but no matter what,it was time to get moving. i was surprised at all the greeneryi saw this early in the spring. everything from the hemlocks to the moss... club mosses like this fan club moss. and of course, the rhododendronsgive this park a vibrant, verdant hue. in the meantime, i had just arrived at theparking lot and made my way towards the trailhead. here we go. robby was just starting out, but i had alreadyhiked across streams and through the mud. i've reached kind of an overpass. here youcan see all the mountains in the distance.
it's been pretty tough so far.this rain is not making it easy at all. hopefully the rain will let up a little bit and we'll geta little bit of sun and get to see some of the views. not far into my hike,i came across an old cemetery. a spooky beginning toan already uneasy ordeal. you might be thinking to yourself... "man, that would really suckto be hiking out in that rain." there's three reasons why it's not. reason number one. it is above freezing, which is thefirst time it's been like that in months.
number two. i bought waterproof boots,so my feet are not soaking wet. and number three, probably the mostimportant, there are no mosquitoes. god, there are no mosquitoes. tough as the hikes may sometimes be, the smokiesare filled with incredible scenery like this mossy cascade. well the rain has finally stopped.thank goodness. even though it's still early march,there's all this greenery around. all these rhododendronsand moss. very beautiful. i've been hiking for what feelslike a while. it's a bunch of uphill.
but i've actually only gone a mile.and i've got about four more to go. hey, there's a pileated woodpecker. sorry, no chance i couldget that on camera, but... i'm actually hoping the rest of this trail is a lot ofuphill because tomorrow i've got an eight mile hike, and... i really want that to just be an easygoing,flat hike along the mountain ridge. in the smokies, you'll oftenfind amazing rock formations... ...much of which are sedimentary rocksformed of clay, silt, sand, and gravel. and just off the trail, there were some morebeautiful sights i wanted to check out. i think i'm about a little overhalfway to the first campsite.
it's been raining all day, and it's beenmaking filming, and hiking, kind of annoying. being solo is definitely a different experience. when you're hiking by yourself, you'repretty much just you and your own thoughts. the whole time i was thinking,"why did i agree to do this?" "can i hike this far?" and"is this gonna be worth it?" i've got no one else here to push me but myself. i've kind ofalready made a commitment, so that kind of keeps me going. i'm gonna be looking forward togetting that campsite though, and... ...getting in that tent, drying off,and getting a good night's sleep tonight. if you've ever seen the movie princess mononoke,this is princess mononoke in real life.
wow, this is beautiful. i bet if i filtered some of this water andtasted it, it would be unbelievably delicious. let's head back. i continued hiking up the trail, passing by a river. whichi thought might mean i was getting close to my campsite. while andrew hiked up through the hills,my trail was a bit more level. i stopped to eat whileenjoying the scenery. the river here was wide and beautiful, and nearby therewas an incredible waterfall gushing down from the bluffs. well i don't know if you can see it here,but just ahead is i guess campsite 35. i can see the fire ring and i can seesome logs people were sitting on.
and i don't see anyone there,so i might have it to myself tonight. but let's keep moving and check it out. well, i got here kind of early i guess, but now's asgood as any time to set up camp while it's still dry. so let's get to it. it's still just me here. but it's stillpretty early. i got here pretty quickly. i think what i'm gonna do is take a little bit of a break.maybe we'll see if anyone shows up later in the day. alright. first night solo, here we go, right? it was only noon, and bryanhad already reached his campsite. me, on the other hand?well, i had a lot of hiking left.
i again passed by some incredible mossy growth. indicative of thetemperate rain forest conditions found in some areas of the park. with how little progress i made, andhow tired i was, i felt as slow as this snail. oh my goodness, this has been quite atough hike, and i think i'm only halfway there. but i am just gonna take a lunch break,because man, i am hungry. i really am unsure if i'mgoing to be able to start a fire. and i completely... oh, that ripped. i completely forgotmy alcohol stove, so uh... i'll have a lot of raw ramen to eat. the sun is like finally coming out a little bit, and i justcannot tell you how much of a moral boost that is...
morale boost rather. to just be this high up...mountains with the clouds rolling by... oh man, it is... it is just elation. i of course have heremy world's famous kim chi. oh yeah! i was really anxious about a solo hike,because last time i got really demoralized, but man... this is like seventh heaven right now,i cannot even explain. woo! it was tough, and it'll be tough.the rain made it really hard.
but it's all worth it for these moments. as andrew rested, i soon came toa bridge crossing fairly along on the trail. as i'm sitting here, i'm wondering how everyone elseis doing. i was thinking about thomas in particular. it's friday, so while we're out here enjoying the smoky mountains,he's probably sitting at a cubicle doing excel spreadsheets. bryan and andrew are probably doing okay.i don't know if the view is as beautiful as it is here, but... if it's half as beautiful, i'm sure they'redoing great. because it's pretty gorgeous. take a look at this. it's called wood ear fungus. this stuff is really slimy andgooey and really gelatinous.
and it's actually anedible fungus, believe it or not. it gets its name obviously because it lookslike a bunch of ears growing out of wood. and this is actually foundin a lot of chinese dishes. but i'm not gonna eat this right now since i'm alone and i'm not amycological expert, so i don't even want to risk it even if i'm sure. if i find morels though,you better believe i'm gonna eat those. chances are it was too early and cold tofind morels, but a man can dream, can't he? it's kind of hard to see, but those are twoof the biggest rocks i've ever seen in my life. they have to be at least fifty feet, end to end. man, i've never seen anything like that.
places like this are mental landmarks. and when you remember back to them, it's like an anchorfor everything else that was in your life at that time. so if like you were having good things in your life,you really remember those even more strongly. as time goes on, even the bad thingsin your life, you look back on them fondly. or you find only the good things toremember about them, and you remember that. this is also known as "rose-colored glasses". i continued along the path which winded through forests,open areas, and even more forests again. meanwhile, there was morepeaceful riverside hiking for me. wow, being in this desolate landscape here, this iswhere you could start to feel a little lonely i think.
it's pretty creepy out here. i came to yet another switchback.i needed a break. luckily, the views here canrekindle your spirit instantly. it's moments like these thatmake the smokies so worth hiking. as stare out across the horizon, all of yourstruggles seem to melt away into nothingness. the sun had come out for abrief moment before i continued on. meanwhile, the hike forthe day was just about over. the final trail junction formy campsite is just up ahead. there's a cement ford here, so you have to walk your horse.i don't have a horse, so that's not a problem.
looking forward to getting to the campsite though and just checking it out.wonder if there's going to be any other campers out there, i don't know. as i hiked, i came across more club mosses. lycopodium obscurumand lycopodium clavatum. this is a pretty cool plant.i remember seeing it last time i was in the smokies. and it's called striped wintergreen,if memory serves correct. and if i'm wrong, i'll just let thenarrator do the rest of the talking. i was right! these leaves can be eaten as a snack, but it's best toleave them alone as they're considered endangered in some regions. now, wood is usually not blue. and the reason there's this blue color onthis wood is the blue mycelium of a fungus.
now, the name escapes me, so i'll let thenarrator tell you what the name of the fungus is. it's called green elf cup. actually, the logo of our show,the blue background... most of that is actually just a picture of a blue log thatrobby and i found while we were camping in the smokies. pretty neat stuff. my path and the weather continuedto be more beautiful as i went along. it was a different story for andrew though. oh man, it is just windy, cold, wet... the sunlight from earlier only lasted a little bit.
and it just feels like no matter how muchi keep hiking, there's just more and more uphill. i just keep thinking it's gotta be here.and i turn the corner and it's just more uphill. but holy cow, i may be gettingclose because look at this. it's a pretty sharp dropfrom the edge of that trail. so, on the plus side it seemsthat i am on the ridge. which means, at some point,the trail can only go downhill. i was literally just looking at the map wondering, wow,how have i not come up to the trail junction yet, and then... ...i saw it. it's definitely either on...
...camel gap trail or still on the big creek trail, i'm notreally sure, but it's definitely on the west side of the water. if i go here, this'll take meto the east side of the water. l don't have much left to say. now this fungus hereis called birch polypore. and it's a bit too old to do anything, but...
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